Post by rcgldr on Nov 2, 2009 12:49:23 GMT
If you use manual shift, turn off autoclutch. You'll get slightly faster shifts on some cars, a bit better launch on most cars, and much faster launch on the Zonda.
Another manual shift trick is to downshift while at full throttle before braking. The game lets you downshift into any gear regardless of speed. The car may brake a bit faster, but the main thing is that downshifting while at full throttle ends up very smooth, as if the game has an engine braking limiter (slipper clutch). So the car will be more stable if you braking during corner entry. I run with all assists off, and if I downshift into 2nd on the Zonda mid-turn, it usually kicks the rear end out too far. I started using "pre-downshifting" in order to drive the EVO IX, where the downshifts seem to take almost a second to actually take place, whether you downshift just 1 gear or 4 gears, the delay is always about 1 second in the EVO IX. IF I downshift the EVO IX while at full throttle, the downshift seem to happen a bit quicker.
I'm running 0/1 (front/rear) downforce on all my cars. This isn't good for tight tracks like Tokyo, but it's good for Spa and Willow. It's not too bad at Nordschleife, and the Zonda will reach 220 mph = 355 kph on the final straight which can help if it's a close race. A 2/3 to 4/5 setup would probably be better, but I'm waiting for the patch before I start tweaking setups again.
One issue related to downforce is that it shouldn't be doing much in the lower speed turns, it should help in moderately fast turns, but in high speed turns, the engine power is the limiting factor, not the grip.
Until the bounce problem gets fixed in the patch, and if the bounce problem is an issue on your systems (this seems to vary), try to be braking when moving over the problem spots. Approach with higher than normal speed, then brake through the problem spot. Obviously this doesn't work when the problem spot is in an acceleration zone. You can also memorize the bouncy spots and avoid them if they aren't across the entire track.
Another manual shift trick is to downshift while at full throttle before braking. The game lets you downshift into any gear regardless of speed. The car may brake a bit faster, but the main thing is that downshifting while at full throttle ends up very smooth, as if the game has an engine braking limiter (slipper clutch). So the car will be more stable if you braking during corner entry. I run with all assists off, and if I downshift into 2nd on the Zonda mid-turn, it usually kicks the rear end out too far. I started using "pre-downshifting" in order to drive the EVO IX, where the downshifts seem to take almost a second to actually take place, whether you downshift just 1 gear or 4 gears, the delay is always about 1 second in the EVO IX. IF I downshift the EVO IX while at full throttle, the downshift seem to happen a bit quicker.
I'm running 0/1 (front/rear) downforce on all my cars. This isn't good for tight tracks like Tokyo, but it's good for Spa and Willow. It's not too bad at Nordschleife, and the Zonda will reach 220 mph = 355 kph on the final straight which can help if it's a close race. A 2/3 to 4/5 setup would probably be better, but I'm waiting for the patch before I start tweaking setups again.
One issue related to downforce is that it shouldn't be doing much in the lower speed turns, it should help in moderately fast turns, but in high speed turns, the engine power is the limiting factor, not the grip.
Until the bounce problem gets fixed in the patch, and if the bounce problem is an issue on your systems (this seems to vary), try to be braking when moving over the problem spots. Approach with higher than normal speed, then brake through the problem spot. Obviously this doesn't work when the problem spot is in an acceleration zone. You can also memorize the bouncy spots and avoid them if they aren't across the entire track.