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Post by aarog5606 on Apr 16, 2011 18:50:07 GMT
Here you go Poul, there is no doubt we can get below 1:08 I used telemetry to make the setup, ill post it in a bit.
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Post by Grnkjr0 on Apr 16, 2011 19:04:52 GMT
Awesome time there Aaron. You used telemetry to make the tuning - how does that work? I know you can see a lof of information via telemetry, but I have no idea what to use it for.
I wish I had not been at work for so many hours today, then I would have the energy to do a 1.07 and post it tonight, but I guess tomorrow is another day.
Poul
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Post by aarog5606 on Apr 16, 2011 19:35:38 GMT
I used to play Nascar racing by Papyrus and i spent alot of time on setting up the cars, their telemetry is very similar. This really seemed to work well and i could really tell the difference in the changes i was making.
I went by tire temperatures to make all my adjustments.
You want the center of the tire to be the same temps as the inside and outside of the tires, which means the whole tire is touching the track giving you most grip. So first, i adjusted tire pressures and alignment settings to get the most even temps.
Next, i adjusted springs, dampers, swaybars, bumpstops and downforce to get the tire temps as close to the same for all 4 corners of the car. The closer you can get all 4 tires the same temps while cornering means all 4 corners of the car have the most grip. This really helps with the wear of the tires. The right rear usually has the highest temps, which means it will wear out faster than the rest and loose grip faster. Hopefully this works for you also, try out my LP setup and see what you think. Let me know please.
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Post by Grnkjr0 on Apr 16, 2011 20:22:00 GMT
Nope, that tuning of yours was not good with my settings. Perhaps because I use 180 degree of wheel rotation. I can understand that tire temperatures wear out thingy - but on this track you are going sideways most of the time, so...... But I will look into this telemetry eventually. Good useful information Aaron - thanks.
Poul
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Post by SPEEDFr3ak on Apr 16, 2011 20:46:58 GMT
1:08.369 in the lp640.
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Post by TomasT (PC) on Apr 16, 2011 21:36:06 GMT
Didnt work for me either. Anti roll bars need to be stiffer to avoid sliding, lower tire pressure. More front toe to improve turn in. Less rear camber to avoid sliding. The gears are too long too. At least for my driving style.
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Post by SPEEDFr3ak on Apr 16, 2011 21:37:09 GMT
nice one tomas! can you share your one here?
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Post by TomasT (PC) on Apr 16, 2011 22:15:58 GMT
I dont really have "a" setup. I tried Aarons setup and then just tried quickly to: -stiffened the springs to about middle -tire pressure at about 40 on both -suspension at middle, rebounds a little less and front slow bump a little harder -tighter anti roll bars -brake bias at 55 -shortened gears
This will all depend on wheel settings, rotation degree, steering sensitivity, speed sensitivity (important in this boat simulator). If I really go for a good time I will change wheel settings for every track in this game, much more important than in Shift 1.
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Post by rcgldr on Apr 17, 2011 18:50:59 GMT
You want the center of the tire to be the same temps as the inside and outside of the tires. On higher downforce cars, you'd want the inside temperatures to be a bit higher on a typical track. I recall doing seperate setups for each of the 7 cars and 11 tracks in Grand Prix Legends. I'm not looking forwards to doing this in Shift 2 with it's 80 tracks. For Shift 1, I used the same setups (one for each car) for all tracks, but it had simpler physics and setups. Is the Zonda R in Shift 2 that much slower than the Zonda R in Shift 1? No one has mentioned getting a good time with that car. In my case the works Apollo is getting better lap times at Willow Springs than the works LP640, maybe because of all the time spent in the curves versus the straights there.
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Post by micrak on Apr 18, 2011 22:44:51 GMT
My first impression :what is this trash, impossible to drive straight all drunk
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Post by Soul Traveller (PC, PS3) on Apr 19, 2011 1:22:03 GMT
I am finding lots of cars almost impossible to drive straight. Generally the car I am picking is the one that stays on the road the easiest. Am I doing something wrong?
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Post by rcgldr on Apr 19, 2011 3:19:06 GMT
My first impression :what is this trash, impossible to drive straight all drunk I am finding lots of cars almost impossible to drive straight. Generally the car I am picking is the one that stays on the road the easiest. Am I doing something wrong? There seems to be a yaw stability issue in Shift 2, causing cars to weave side to side, especially at high speed, and also depending on the car. Setting steering speed sensitivity to 100% may help.
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Post by aarog5606 on Apr 20, 2011 12:18:03 GMT
I tried my Ambush setup posted above at a few different tracks yesterday and it was terrible (Still works good for Ambush however). So i made a new setup useing same tire pressures but much stiffer susp and dampers. Turn in is alot better and holds corner speeds better, especially at high speeds. The overall feeling is much better, tighter. I decided to make the setup first and then check telemetry. It didnt make a difference at all to tire temps. Im thinking something is not right with telemetry or im not doing something right(probably the case ). Either way, telemetry seems useless.
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Post by dimitrikhoz on Apr 20, 2011 14:41:16 GMT
Im thinking something is not right with telemetry or im not doing something right(probably the case ). Either way, telemetry seems useless. Instead of writing common knowledge tips about tune on the Shift 2 website, giving wrong advice in the in-game videos starred by real world class drivers, game developers should have made an instruction manual for the telemery, or at least Q&A.
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Post by SPEEDFr3ak on Apr 20, 2011 15:11:36 GMT
the should have phrased at least the ingame setup guide better. dunno which dampers or rebounds affect steer in etc. but well, I'm gonna write my setup down soon, hopefully some of you guys can improve it then.
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